Restoring the Canedy Otto New #16

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Hand Cranked - No Electricity Needed

Update September 3, 2008. Restoration work has been stalled for 9 years now. I am busy setting up and expanding my smithy and at the same time I am producing more metalwork. Repairs and restorations on this drill will continue when I have more time, possibly during the winter months late 2008-2009.

The Canedy-Otto New Number 16 Drill

Here described is the beginning of a restoration to bring a very well made professional model hand powered drill press back to life. At the time of this writing the drill has been completely stripped down for cleaning and repair. More photos and updates will be added to this page later for those who have interest in repairing and restoring old machines and tooling. Click on thumbailed pictures to see full size.

What is this thing?

The New No. 16 is a large heavy duty 2-speed combination hand-cranked and lineshaft driven drill press used by blacksmiths and machine shops from the end of the 19^th century until the early part of the 20th century. It stands nearly 6 feet tall from the bottom of the pipe frame mount bracket to the top of the flywheel. This not counting that the drill must still be mounted a couple feet higher yet to allow the table and hand crank to be operated at a convenient height.

This drill was meant to run with or without power. If electrical, engine, or other mechanical power was not available to the smith, he simply turned the hand crank to run the drill by hand. Although I didn't have a copy of the manufacturers catalog to verify drilling capacity of the this drill, I found an advertisement in a competitors catalog depicting a similar drill and the manufacturer states their drill is rated to drill a 1-1/2 inch hole. Drill weight is about 500 lbs.

In the current photograph (top of page) taken before restoration was begun, the hand crank that allows the operator to run the drill by hand was removed. The large feed handle with its four handgrips imparts a semi modern appearance. And of coarse the dominating feature is the extra large flywheel above.

Flywheel, gear changes, ( update later )

Did you say more than one way to drill stuff with it?

The New No. 16 has two types of drill feed operation. The first is identical to modern drill presses involving a lever wheel fastened to the quill spline shaft, which engages the drill quill to force the drill spindle up and down. This is seen as the four large lever handles on the left side (user’s right) of the upper frame of the drill. When the drill is powered by belt to a motor or line shaft, the user need only loosen the ratchet clutch and run the feed lever wheel up and down to move the drill in the desired direction.

Auto feed is the second method of drill feed and is necessary when the user is cranking the drill by hand and holding the work at the same time. Auto feed is accomplished by lever action of a set of reciprocating arms, which rotate a ratchet wheel, which in turn through a series of gears forces the quill shaft downward into the work at a preset speed. Power for the lever arms is obtained by connecting them through an eccentric gear attachment, which is driven directly by rotation of the drill itself. The eccentric connection of the New No. 16 is adjustable via a large thumb wheel which is loosened and slipped the desired length along the T-bolt slot machined into the eccentric gear, allowing down feed speed to be changed by the user.

Down feed pressure can be controlled during the auto feed operation by adjusting the large thumbwheel on the clutch mounted to the quill spline shaft auto feed gear. This feature which is not common on most other smaller presses, allows the operator to gig the drill quill up or down by simply grasping the feed lever handles and turning them even with the auto feed engaged. In comparison many smaller hand crank drills require the operator to disengage the ratcheting feed pawls and turn the feed ratchet wheel and screw by hand until the drill is finally withdrawn. This feed clutch option also allows the New N0. -16 user to limit and control the amount of automatic down feed force, however down feed force should primarily be controlled by setting the correct speed position adjustment of the eccentric gear T-bolt thumbwheel and auto-feed ratchet arm.

Can you make it go without cranking it?

Two pulleys about 10-3/4 inches in diameter and 2-3/4 inches wide are mounted on the drill right (user left) side. The drive pulley is set-screwed directly to the drive shaft and is mounted closest to the drill frame. The drive pulley is rigidly mounted to the drive shaft so both rotate together. The idle or free pulley is mounted beside the drive pulley on the drive shaft but is not keyed or rigidly mounted to the shaft. The idle pulley can be turned freely so if the lineshaft belt is running, and the belt is shifted onto the idle pulley, the drive shaft will not be forced to turn while the idle pulley is spinning. When it is desired to operate a drill on a rotating line shaft, a weighted lever with lugs surrounding the drive belt is pulled so the belt lugs drag the drive belt over and onto the drive pulley. The drill will begin rotating. The idle pulley should be expected to begin rotating also after a few seconds of drill operation. When the user wants to stop the drill, the belt lever is pushed towards the idle pulley until the drive belt is positioned entirely on the idle pulley and after a few seconds friction will bring the drill to a stop.

Does it have a table like a real drill press?

The drill table is adjustable in height by rotating a crank handle, which rotates a jackscrew lifting, or lowering the table-mounting bracket. The table can be swung aside so large pieces can be handled in the drill. A hand screw tightens the table more securely to the frame after height is adjusted to desired level. Leveling screws beneath the table plate adjust the level of the drill table. The table can be removed entirely by removing the mounting clamp beneath the table plate. The table measures about 12inches square and has a hole in the center to allow the drill bit to pass. Slots are cut in the table like its modern day counterpart for the bolting and clamping of work.

The jackscrew pinion gear was seized to the shaft with rust and dirt. The pinion assembly consists of a jackscrew, mount casting, crank pinion gear, and a shaft threaded to the pinion mount casting. A washer riveted to the end of the shaft secures the pinion gear to the end of the shaft. The opposite end of the shaft is threaded into the jackscrew casting. A riveted retaining pin is placed through the hole drilled through the casting and through the threaded end of the shaft to secure the shaft to the casting. Without the retaining pin the threaded shaft would unscrew itself from the casting due to friction.

To remove the pinion gear, the shaft was threaded out of the mount casting after drilling and driving out the riveted retaining pin. This whole assembly was disassembled and cleaned and rubbed with emery cloth. The pinion gear was reinstalled on its shaft and a new pin riveted in place to secure the pinion shaft. A piece of 3/16ths cold rolled round was used to make a pin to rivet the shaft back in place.

Can you use regular drill bits and stuff in it?

The drill spindle is machined to take a 5/8ths inch round shank drill bit or chuck arbor. A pawl positioned in the side of the drill spindle in the form of a wedge presses into the flat side ground on the round drill shanks or arbors so the drill has a positive grip on them to force them to rotate when they encounter the resistance to drilling. A special nut and collar fitted to the end of the spindle force the wedge inward to tighten it. Very small "ears" are punched out of the sides of the angled surface ( too small to be visible in this photo ) to catch the wedge and stop it from falling through the slot in the side of the drill spindle.

The 5/8ths inch round shank arbors can still be bought for now but this size is not interchangeable with the Morse taper parts for other drills, and 5/8ths inch shank drill bits are not available. So I have begun assembling an accessory kit to adapt the drill spindle to Morse taper accessories. A pair of Morse Taper extensions with 3MT shanks and 2MT and 3MT sockets, were sent to a machine shop to have the shanks turned down to 5/8ths inch round with a flat side. These extensions can be inserted in the spindle and Morse taper drills and chuck arbors can be used with this drill. I chose not to machine the drill press spindle to Morse taper so to preserve future historic value of the drill as a museum quality antique. Notice that the shoulder of the barrel of the extension is fitted closely to the bottom surface of the collet chuck. This I felt would add support to a weakened area of the extensions. The ends of the 5/8ths inch arbors must be fitted and cut closely to slide all the way into the collet of the spindle, yet not so short as to create a loss of contact area which supports the extension inside the drill spindle. As can be seen in the photo, the extensions can add considerable length to the drill spindle.

The chuck that came with the drill when I bought it was a Standard #2 Improved made by The Standard Tool Company of Cleveland Ohio. This is a large old fashioned style chuck as seen in many antique advertisements from the turn of the century. It will take straight shank bits from 1/16^th to 3/4^th of an inch. Follow this link for more on this chuck.

Where's the crank handle?

The crank handle which rotates the drill spindle was straightened and untwisted. A new wooden grip was made to fit onto the crank handle to replace the missing wooden grip. The old one had worn off years ago. An example of the handle to be copied was from the New no. 16 drill that can be seen in the blacksmith shop in Dows Iowa. This is the style of handle which I had copied for my own drill spindle crank handle. The crank for the height adjustment on my drill is missing. A "new" table height crank may be purchased or possibly made by me at a later date when the drill restoration is completed. The photo to the right is of that drill.

About the Dows Drill example. The drill at the Dows blacksmith shop, was converted long ago into an electric only drill press with a motor mounted on the top rear of the frame. They also made a pedestal frame stand to mount their drill like a regular modern drill press. The handle that was still on their drill was the crank which adjusts the height of the table. The Dows shop was a town blacksmith shop which also built wagons during the early part of the 20^th century. A line shaft once ran many of the tools in this shop.

So where the heck did ya get it?

This drill was acquired at an antique engine steam power swap meet. The story told to me is that the drill belonged to an old blacksmith in the Western part of Iowa. The drill was mounted to a 12-inch post in a barn which the owner was using for a workshop on his farm. The blacksmith used an old lineshaft to run all the machines in his shop and an electric motor to run the line shaft. The owner was very old and was quitting business. We believe this drill press was made around 1896.

How'd it get so dirty?

Judging by the condition of the drill it fell into disuse for some years. Dirt, rust, and dried oil and grease caked on the gears and inside the bearings. Temperatures during the fall and spring rise and fall dramatically inside a workshop such as a barn or unheated blacksmith shop. Without the suns warming rays, tools and stone get very cold and as the sun warms the building during the day, condensation forms on the still cold machinery rusting exposed metal surfaces. Condensation also collects the dust stirred up in a barn by farm animals, and this dust caked on to the drill was probably responsible for preserving it in the condition it was when I bought it.

What have you done to it so far?

Current restorations actions taken:

Belt adjustment lever cleaned, straightened, the one botched lug screw repair was removed and the hole welded shut and re-drilled and tapped for 3/8 inch bolt, replaced and ground off shoulder of replacement 3/8 inch carriage bolt installed.

Thoroughly cleaned feed ratchet pawls and arms and shaft, worn ratchet pawls reground to fit as new. Worm drive gear cleaned, shaft mount brackets cleaned.

Clutch, pressure screw, and bracket cleaned. Threads cleaned to allow free rotation.

Change gears disassembled and cleaned. Drive gears disassembled and cleaned. Power transfer gear cleaned. Eccentric drive and eccentric gears cleaned. Eccentric ratchet lever thumb screw cleaned and thread cleaned.

The collar retaining the free pulley on the end of the drive shaft was found cracked through around the set screw hole. The crack was repaired by welding but while cleaning up the weld bead some of the repaired area was too hard for the file to cut. I plan to try to anneal this before continuing to re-drill and thread the collar. The original hardness was not tested before welding. If this collar was supposed to be hardened, it no longer is due to the amount of heat during welding.

All babbitt bearings are worn badly enough to require replacement. Upper spindle journal bearing worn enough to allow spindle to wobble as drive gears thrust against it. The drill will still operate ok but due to the large amount of time to disassemble and clean, I decided to replace all now rather than later. After a four months on back order, the babbitting supplies finally have arrived. The drill has sat disassembled long enough now that an inventory must again be taken before beginning work with the babbitt. A set of clamping bars have been made to hold the parts in place for babbitting. The frame of the drill is one of the last pieces still needing cleaning and this must be done prior to babbitting.

A good oxide primer has been obtained from a Sherwin Williams source and painting of completed parts will begin this week.

A set of #2 and #3 MT extensions have been machined to fit the original collet chuck on this drill. These extensions will be used as adapters to allow the use of regular MT drill bits.

A new wooden handle grip made by a local woodworker has been fitted to the crank handle.

The table jack screw gearing which was seized, has been separated and cleaned and reassembled.
Old babbitt bearings have been broken out of the frame and the frame cleaned and readied for pouring new bearings. Things have slowed down on the drill due to my current work load. Bearings will be poured when I have time to work on this drill again.

Definitions:

The initials JT refer to Jacobs Taper, which is a standard type of taper used in mounting drill chucks to arbors. MT refers to Morse Taper which is a standard machine taper often used for accurately centered mandrel and socket type fittings such as fitting drill arbors to drill spindle sockets and lathe centers and tail end tools. An "arbor" is a mandrel to which a drill chuck is fitted, and with which the chuck can be mounted to the drill press Spindle shaft. When a Morse taper drill arbor is pressed into a drill spindle, friction is strong enough to hold it there until pried apart with a wedge.

There is still a lot more work to be done before the drill can be reassembled

and a stand built and mounted. More updates will follow as work progresses.

Photos of completed work will be added later.

Latest Update August 2nd, 2003.

Readers who have knowledge or documentation concerning professional inspection and repair of this drill are invited to mail the author at the email address below. NOTE: this does not include silly little sales advertisements from old magazines or catalogs. I am looking for real information concerning maintenance inspection and repair. A mechanic's service manual must have existed at one time for the higher priced heavy duty drills sold by the Canedy Otto company but I haven't been able to locate one yet.

The author can be emailed at address in picture below:

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